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Updated October 2026
This 10-day Hokkaido self-drive itinerary loops from Hakodate to Shiretoko and back to Sapporo in autumn, with Lake Toya, Biei's Blue Pond, Daisetsuzan, Lake Akan and Obihiro along the way. It's the route we drove with my parents, paced for a relaxed family trip. We've updated it with the current driving rules, expressway pass prices and Shiretoko trail rules for 2026.
Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan's main islands, is one of the most popular destinations for Singaporeans, and for good reason: unspoilt nature, and some of the best seafood and produce in Japan. It's also huge. You can't cover everything in 10 days, so this was our second trip, and we chose a slower pace with my parents. If you want more time at each stop, add 3–4 days.
We also didn't follow our original plan exactly. A typhoon forced us to leave some places early because we were worried about road conditions. I've added the other attractions in each area so you can plan your own version.
Hokkaido self-drive at a glance
| Duration | 10 days, 9 nights |
|---|---|
| When we went | Autumn 2018 (updated with 2026 info) |
| Who | Family trip with my parents (we met my siblings in Sapporo) |
| Route | Hakodate → Lake Toya → Sapporo → Furano/Biei → Asahikawa → Shari → Shiretoko → Lake Akan → Obihiro → Sapporo |
| Total driving | About 1,220km and 22 hours of driving in total |
| You'll need | Singapore driving licence + International Driving Permit |
| Best for | Autumn foliage (mid-September in Daisetsuzan, October further south) |
๐ Planning to drive? Book your car early in autumn, especially automatic cars with an ETC card. Compare Hokkaido car rentals →
In this guide
- Hokkaido self-drive route and summary
- Self-drive essentials: IDP, expressway pass, flights
- Day 1–2: Hakodate and Onuma
- Day 3: Lake Toya to Sapporo
- Day 4: Sapporo, Farm Tomita and the Blue Pond
- Day 5: Asahikawa, Daisetsuzan and the drive to Shari
- Day 6–7: Shiretoko Five Lakes and Kaminoko Pond
- Day 8: Lake Akan to Obihiro
- Day 9–10: Obihiro back to Sapporo
- Where we stayed
- FAQ
Hokkaido Self-Drive Route and 10-Day Summary
Our 10-day loop from Hakodate to Shiretoko and back to Sapporo: about 22 hours of driving in total.
Most people fly into New Chitose Airport (CTS) near Sapporo and start and end there. If you want last-minute shopping, fly home from Sapporo rather than Hakodate.
We flew into Hakodate because H wanted fresh sashimi, then drove north to the unspoilt nature of Shiretoko. Driving gives you flexibility and access to places tours don't reach. The downside is long hours between stops, so plan rest days.
| Day | Route and highlights | Overnight |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Singapore → Hakodate Airport, dinner at Hakodate Dining Gaya | Hakodate |
| Day 2 | Hakodate Morning Market, Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, Lucky Pierrot, Onuma Quasi-National Park | Lake Toya |
| Day 3 | Lake Toya, Fujimori Fruit Farm, Jozankei Hoheikyo Dam, Sapporo | Sapporo |
| Day 4 | Nijo Fish Market, Farm Tomita, Blue Pond (Biei) | Asahikawa |
| Day 5 | Otokoyama Sake Brewery, Daisetsuzan (Kurodake Ropeway), drive to Shari | Shari |
| Day 6 | Lake Notoro, Shiretoko Satomi, Shiretoko Five Lakes at sunset | Shiretoko (Utoro) |
| Day 7 | Shiretoko cruise, Kaminoko Pond, Lake Akan Ainu Kotan | Lake Akan |
| Day 8 | Lake Akan, Lake Onneto, Butadon at Tonta, Rokkatei | Obihiro |
| Day 9 | Butadon Pancho, drive back, shopping in Sapporo | Sapporo |
| Day 10 | Sapporo → Singapore | – |
Hokkaido Self-Drive Essentials: IDP, Expressway Pass and Flights
Driving is the best way to see Hokkaido outside the cities, but sort these out before you fly. For the full list, read our tips for a self-drive Hokkaido road trip.
International Driving Permit (IDP)
Singapore licence holders need an International Driving Permit plus their Singapore licence to rent and drive in Japan. Get the IDP from the Automobile Association of Singapore before you leave, as rental counters will turn you away without one.
Hokkaido Expressway Pass (HEP)
The HEP gives foreign visitors unlimited use of Hokkaido's expressways, and is sold by rental companies with an ETC card. Since the October 2024 revision, it runs from 4 to 8 days: for a standard car, about ¥7,700 for 4 days up to ¥15,400 for 8 days. For a 10-day trip, buy two passes (for example, 4 + 5 days). Prices are correct as of October 2026, so check with your rental company.
Is it worth it? For a route like ours, with long expressway stretches from Hakodate to Sapporo and Asahikawa towards the east, yes. If you mostly stay on local roads, you may not need it.
Driving tips
- Fill up early. Petrol stations in eastern Hokkaido are far apart, and small-town stations can close early in the evening.
- Watch for deer, especially at dusk in Shiretoko and Akan.
- Plan around the weather. Typhoons can reach Hokkaido in September; we left Shiretoko early because of one.
- Restaurants close early outside Sapporo, often by 8pm. Arrive at your hotel in time for dinner or book a half-board stay.
Flights from Singapore
We flew Singapore Airlines and ANA, transiting in Tokyo, and the journey took most of the day. Singapore Airlines now runs seasonal direct flights to Sapporo (New Chitose) in winter, about 7.5 hours. Outside that season, you'll connect through Tokyo, Osaka, Taipei or Seoul. If your route transits Narita, here's what we did on our layover in Narita City.
๐ก️ Driving overseas? Check your travel insurance covers rental car excess. We compare plans on SingSaver. Compare travel insurance →
Day 1–2: Hakodate Morning Market and Onuma Quasi-National Park
Day 1: Arriving in Hakodate
By the time we reached Hakodate, it was night. Hakodate is quiet after dark, and most restaurants close at 8pm. We ended up at Hakodate Dining Gaya, then rested at Hotel Hachimanzaka.
Day 2: Hakodate Morning Market, Red Brick Warehouses and Lucky Pierrot
Hakodate Morning Market (left and centre) and the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses by the harbour.
Start at Hakodate Morning Market for fresh seafood. We spent 3 hours there. The ikura at Ikura Tei was the best we had all trip, and my mum was very happy with her melon.
Next, stroll the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses and the harbour. Then don't miss Lucky Pierrot, a burger chain you'll only find in Hakodate. We bought their instant curry as souvenirs and our friends loved it.
On the way to Lake Toya, we stopped at Onuma Quasi-National Park, known for its lake and views of Mount Komagatake. It isn't the best national park we visited, but it makes a good break on the drive. Read our full Hakodate guide.
Lake Toya, part of Shikotsu-Toya National Park, on a cool autumn evening.
In the late afternoon, we drove to Lake Toya (Toyako) in Shikotsu-Toya National Park and checked into Granvillage Toya Daiwa Ryokan Annex. Dinner was Michelin Bib Gourmand ramen at Ippontei. There are many good restaurants around the lake, and we'll definitely be back.
๐จ Hakodate hotels on Agoda · Granvillage Toya Daiwa Ryokan Annex
Day 3: Lake Toya, Fruit Picking and Hoheikyo Dam to Sapporo
A warming dessert at Okadaya, autumn colours at Jozankei Hoheikyo Dam, and grape picking at Fujimori Fruit Farm.
The next morning, we walked part of the Lake Toya trail but turned back because it was too cold. Instead, we warmed up with traditional Japanese desserts at Okadaya (ๅฒก็ฐๅฑ). More things to do at Lake Toya.
Then we went fruit picking at Fujimori Fruit Farm in Sลbetsu, just in time for grape season. We paid ¥880 for unlimited picking and eating (2018 price). We couldn't finish, so we paid extra to take some home.
On the way to Sapporo, we stopped at Jozankei Hoheikyo Dam, built for irrigation and flood control. It turns out it's also a favourite local spot for autumn foliage.
In Sapporo, we checked into Hotel Sunroute New Sapporo and met my siblings for dinner at Suage 2 soup curry (which, I later found out, now has a Singapore outlet!). After two quiet nights, Sapporo felt vibrant, with shops open well past 8pm.
๐จ Hakodate hotels on Agoda · Hotel Sunroute Sapporo
Day 4: Nijo Market, Farm Tomita and the Blue Pond
Sapporo TV Tower, the covered shopping streets, and a seafood breakfast near Nijo Market.
We started at Nijo Fish Market, the closest market to our hotel. The seafood wasn't as good as Hakodate's, but it was decent, with lots of seafood and dried goods to browse. Things to do in Sapporo.
Farm Tomita's flower fields, lavender soft serve, and the emerald Blue Pond in Biei.
About 2 hours from Sapporo, Farm Tomita is Hokkaido's famous lavender farm. Even outside lavender season (July), there are other flowers in bloom, and the lavender soft serve is a must.
Next, the Blue Pond (Shirogane Aoiike) in Biei. It's a man-made pond built to protect Biei from volcanic mudflows; the blue comes from aluminium hydroxide in the water. We arrived in the afternoon to an emerald-blue surface. Read our Furano and Biei guide.
In the evening, we drove to Asahikawa, Hokkaido's second-largest city, famous for its zoo and ramen. We checked into Y's Hotel Asahikawa Ekimae and had dinner at the AEON Mall next door.
๐จ Sapporo hotels · Furano hotels · Y's Hotel Asahikawa Ekimae
Day 5: Otokoyama Sake Brewery, Daisetsuzan and the Drive to Shari
Otokoyama Sake Brewery, autumn foliage in Daisetsuzan National Park, and a sake tasting pour.
After breakfast at Matsuya (H's favourite fast-food chain), we visited the award-winning Otokoyama Sake Brewery Museum. The tasting sold us; we've hunted for Otokoyama sake back home ever since.
Then we headed to Daisetsuzan National Park, Hokkaido's largest national park. We took the easy option, the Kurodake Ropeway, to see the mountains. Daisetsuzan is the first place in Japan where autumn colours appear, usually from mid-September. Read our Asahikawa and Daisetsuzan guide.
In the afternoon, we began the long drive east: about 4 hours to Shari. The restaurant we wanted, Shiretoko Satomi, had closed by the time we arrived, so we ate at a yakiniku restaurant (็ผ่ๅทฅๆฟใใใใ) and stayed at Hotel Route Inn Grantia Shiretoko Shari Ekimae.
Day 6–7: Shiretoko Five Lakes, Cruise and Kaminoko Pond
Kakiage and seafood don at Shiretoko Satomi, sunset on the way to Utoro, and Lake Notoro.
On Day 6 we visited Lake Notoro, whose coral grass turns deep red in autumn. Sadly, it had all dried out when we arrived.
The lunch made up for it. Shiretoko Satomi, a Japanese home-style restaurant, served the best kakiage of our trip and one of our best meals in Hokkaido.
Shiretoko Five Lakes at sunset, with the Shiretoko mountain range glowing in autumn colours.
Shiretoko Five Lakes (็ฅๅบไบๆน)
The five lakes were formed by volcanic activity, and Shiretoko is one of Hokkaido's best-kept secrets. We were lucky to catch the sunset here.
- Elevated boardwalk: free, about 800m each way, wheelchair-accessible, with views of the first lake and the mountains.
- Ground loop trails: all five lakes, but with bear rules. In peak bear season (about 10 May–31 July), you must join a paid guided tour. In autumn, you attend a 10-minute lecture at the Field House and pay a small fee. Trails close if bears are spotted.
- Check the latest rules and fees on the official Shiretoko Goko Lakes site before you go.
That night, we stayed at Shiretoko Daiichi Hotel in Utoro on half board. It's huge and grand, with the biggest onsen I'd ever been to. We felt like royalty.
Kaminoko Pond, the Shiretoko coastline from the cruise, and the clear blue water of Kaminoko Pond.
On Day 7, after the hotel buffet, we took a 90-minute Shiretoko sightseeing cruise towards Mount Io. Seeing the peninsula's cliffs and waterfalls from the sea was so relaxing. Cruises are seasonal (roughly spring to autumn) and weather-dependent, so book once you know your dates.
Next, Kaminoko Pond, "the child of god" in an Ainu legend, fed by underground water from Lake Mashu. Its blue is exceptional. Read our Shiretoko guide.
We ended the day at Lake Akan, checking into Forest of Akan Tsuruga Resort Hanayuuka, then visiting the Ainu Kotan village. It's rebuilt in traditional style, with Ainu craft shops, restaurants and evening performances.
๐จ Shari and Shiretoko hotels · Lake Akan and Kushiro hotels on Agoda →
Day 8: Lake Akan, Lake Onneto and Obihiro Butadon
We walked the easiest trail along Lake Akan, a crater lake in Akan-Mashu National Park and home to marimo, rare balls of algae. We didn't spot any in the lake, but we saw them at the Lake Akan Eco Museum Center.
Then Lake Onneto: small, quiet and beautiful, with far fewer people. It was one of the most peaceful stops of the trip. Read our Lake Akan guide.
Kangetsuen's garden, the noren at Butadon no Tonta, and its charcoal-grilled pork rice bowl.
About 2 hours from Lake Onneto, Obihiro is known for onsen and butadon (grilled pork rice bowls). First stop: Butadon no Tonta, listed in the Michelin Guide. Tender, juicy pork with a sauce that goes perfectly with rice. Then dessert at the Rokkatei flagship store; it's famous for Marusei butter sandwiches, but everything looks good.
We stayed at Kangetsuen Hotel for its onsen. Obihiro's moor hot springs are brown, rich in plant minerals, and famous as a "beauty onsen" (็พไบบใฎๆนฏ). For dinner, head to Kita no Yatai, a lane of tiny food stalls. Go early: every stall was full when we arrived, and we ended up at a random izakaya.
๐จ Obihiro hotels with onsen on Agoda →
Day 9–10: Butadon Pancho and Back to Sapporo
Late-season sunflowers on the drive back towards Sapporo.
Before leaving Obihiro, we tried a second butadon at Butadon Pancho, founded in 1933 and one of the oldest butadon shops, popular with locals and tourists. The cut of pork differs from Tonta's, so try both if you can. More things to do in Obihiro.
We drove back to Sapporo for last-minute shopping, stayed at Hotel MyStays Sapporo Nakajima Park, and flew home on Day 10.
This was one of the best road trips I've had with my family, with all the impromptu restaurants and stops along the way. If you only take one thing from it: don't skip the drive east to Shiretoko. It's long, but it's the part of Hokkaido we still talk about.
Where We Stayed in Hokkaido
| Night | Hotel | Area |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hotel Hachimanzaka | Hakodate |
| 2 | Granvillage Toya Daiwa Ryokan Annex | Lake Toya |
| 3 | Hotel Sunroute New Sapporo | Sapporo |
| 4 | Y's Hotel Asahikawa Ekimae | Asahikawa |
| 5 | Hotel Route Inn Grantia Shiretoko Shari Ekimae | Shari |
| 6 | Shiretoko Daiichi Hotel (half board) | Utoro, Shiretoko |
| 7 | Forest of Akan Tsuruga Resort Hanayuuka | Lake Akan (Kushiro) |
| 8 | Kangetsuen Hotel | Obihiro |
| 9 | Hotel MyStays Sapporo Nakajima Park | Sapporo |
Tip: in eastern Hokkaido, book half-board (dinner included) where you can. Restaurants close early and towns are far apart.
Hokkaido Self-Drive FAQ
How many days do you need for a Hokkaido self-drive?
Seven days covers Sapporo, Furano, Biei and Asahikawa. For a loop that includes Shiretoko and Lake Akan in the east, plan at least 10 days, as some drives take 4 hours.
Can Singaporeans drive in Japan?
Yes, with a Singapore driving licence and an International Driving Permit (IDP), which you get from the Automobile Association of Singapore before you travel. Rental companies won't hand over a car without the IDP.
Is the Hokkaido Expressway Pass worth it?
For long-distance routes, usually yes. Since October 2024, the pass covers 4 to 8 days, from about ¥7,700 to ¥15,400 for a standard car, and you buy it with an ETC card from your rental company. For trips longer than 8 days, buy two passes.
When is the best time to see autumn colours in Hokkaido?
Daisetsuzan National Park turns first, usually from mid-September. Colours move south and to lower ground through October, reaching Sapporo and Hakodate around late October.
Can you visit the Shiretoko Five Lakes on your own?
Yes, via the free elevated boardwalk at any time in season. The ground trails need a guided tour in peak bear season (about 10 May–31 July), and a short paid lecture in spring and autumn.
Are there direct flights from Singapore to Sapporo?
Singapore Airlines operates seasonal direct flights to New Chitose (about 7.5 hours), mainly in winter. Outside that season, you'll connect via Tokyo, Osaka, Taipei or Seoul.
Our trip was in autumn 2018; practical information (driving rules, expressway pass, Shiretoko rules, flights) is updated and correct as of October 2026. Prices marked 2018 are from our trip. Always check current rates before booking. This post contains affiliate links; if you book through them, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.