Ikseon-dong (익선동) is one of Seoul's oldest hanok neighbourhoods, a maze of narrow alleys full of cafés, bakeries, small restaurants and craft shops. It's a 2-minute walk from Jongno 3-ga Station (exit 4 or 6) and best in the late afternoon and evening, when the lanes light up. Go on a weekday if you can: it's much busier now than when we first visited.
When we visited in January 2019, Ikseon-dong was one of Seoul's best-kept secrets, and we didn't believe it until we got there. Google Maps wasn't much help. When we arrived we were lost: I expected something like Myeongdong or Hongdae, but we only saw a few BBQ tents and shops, and the nearest café on the map seemed far away.
Ikseon-dong at a glance
| Getting there | Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3 and 5), exit 4 or 6, then a 2-minute walk. Ikseon-dong on Naver Map |
|---|---|
| Best time | Weekday late afternoon into the evening; weekends are very crowded |
| Time needed | 2 to 3 hours for a café, a wander and dinner |
| Nearby | Insadong, Changdeokgung Palace and Gwangjang Market are all within walking distance |
Exploring the Alleys
Thankfully, H didn't trust the search results and noticed lots of shops on the map, so we went back and explored the alleys. To our surprise, they were full of cafés, restaurants and handicraft shops, each with its own cosy, rustic theme, plus vintage-style shops and street food stalls. Honestly, the alleys are like a maze!
Tip: Naver Map or KakaoMap work much better than Google Maps for finding cafés and restaurants in Korea.
Holiday Bakery Café
We followed the crowd and found Holiday Bakery. It looks small from outside but was almost full, and much bigger inside than we expected. The pastries were beautifully displayed and didn't disappoint, though the coffee was mediocre.
Dinner at a BBQ Tent
For dinner we went to the street lined with BBQ tents and queued for the most crowded one (#typicalsingaporean). At first we struggled to get a table, until a kind ajusshi came to the rescue. The staff spoke very little English or Mandarin, so we got by with body language and my limited Korean. The BBQ was good: nice cuts of meat at a reasonable price.
We also found traditional rice cakes and hotteok filled with cheese in the alleys.
Our Verdict
I loved Ikseon-dong: the lights at night, the rustic vibe and the friendly people. When we went there were few foreigners and no English menus, and so many cafés and restaurants we didn't have time to try. It's since become one of Seoul's most popular spots, but it's still a lovely place to spend an evening.
We came back with my parents on our 5-day Seoul itinerary with parents. Also read our 4-day Seoul itinerary, another hidden gem, Tongin Market, and our things to know before visiting Seoul. Staying nearby? Compare Seoul hotels on Agoda.
FAQ
How do I get to Ikseon-dong?
Take the subway to Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3 and 5) and use exit 4 or 6. The hanok alleys are a 2-minute walk away.
When is the best time to visit Ikseon-dong?
A weekday from late afternoon into the evening, when the lanes light up. Weekends are very crowded.
What is there to do in Ikseon-dong?
Wander the hanok alleys, try the cafés and bakeries, browse small craft and vintage shops, and have dinner at one of the BBQ tents nearby.
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